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Jun 17, 2009 10:43 PM
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Introduction to drawing:

Drawing is a skill that just about anyone can learn. It is not reserved for those who are born with a "natural talent". With education, knowledge, and practice, anyone can learn how to draw what they see. It is a myth to think that drawing is reserved for just the "talented" people. Do you think that the skill of handwriting is also reserved for the "talented" people? Of course not!

I am not saying that talent is not a great thing, and I'm not trying to tell you that the concept of talent doesn't exist or doesn't matter. I am just telling you that a drawing is also a learned skill. You learn it, just like you learned handwriting. And when you learn how to draw (and you can learn) you may discover that there is a little bit (or more than a little) of "talent" buried inside you, waiting to be discovered. It may need some extra nurturing, but very likely it's there. So—what are you waiting for? The time to start learning is now!

Don't worry if you feel you are "too old" to learn how to draw. Don't let your age hold you back! There is no time limit to learning how to draw. As long as you have the manual dexterity to write your own name, and can hold pencil to paper, you are perfectly able to learn to draw.

When you are starting to learn how to draw, have patience with yourself, and enjoy the process of learning. Especially when you are starting out, force yourself to take it easy. Don't push yourself to do "perfect" work. I give you permission to do "silly" or "abstract" drawings too. They are just as important as learning to draw accurately. And don't worry, you will, of course, be learning to draw accurately along the way.

Even though the rest of this site (portrait drawing tutorials) is rather specific and structured, (full of "rules") don't think that all art should be full of such "rules". Some of the best art can be full of spontaneous fun, and "goofiness". I think it is especially important for you to remember this, since you are a newbie. Always remember to not get too uptight. Don't be too self-critical. It's not the end of the world if something you draw doesn't turn out the way you like. No big deal. Just do another drawing!

Here are some excellent books that you will need to help you learn how to draw. I am forever recommending books! But books were so instrumental in helping me when I was a drawing "newbie", so I know they will help you too.

Drawing on the Right Side of the Brain"The New Drawing on the Right Side of the Brain" by Betty Edwards is highly recommended.
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I will frequently mention this book (if you haven't already noticed!) I am a firm believer in the methods taught in this book. I attended a class taught by one of Edwards' students. He taught her methods in the class, with great results. This further convinced me that her methods are worthy and highly effective.

This book contains vital information that will help unleash the ability in anyone to be able to draw. The methods taught in this book are very effective. People who thought they "couldn't draw a straight line" saw their skills improve dramatically in a relatively short amount of time!

Keys to Drawing by Bert Dodson
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In a way, I almost think this book is "better" than the Betty Edwards book. Well, not "better"—just different, in an amazingly fabulous way. It compliments and supports the "Right Brain" book beautifully, giving thorough and step-by-step explanations of how an artist looks and sees. Author Bert Dodson is obviously an incredible teacher— understanding, steadfast and articulate. He will gently guide you through the process of learning how to draw. Exercises are explained with such simplicity and clarity, as to not intimidate even the newest of newbies.

One thing I must tell you, though. The drawings in this book are in a more "loose" and "fluid" drawing style. They may look "sloppy" to some, but I assure you, this man knows how to draw, and he knows how to teach drawing. If you can only get two beginning drawing books, I highly recommend this book and the "Right Brain" book.

Natural Way to Draw
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A lot of the drawing classes at art school required this book. It's another one of those classic "must-haves". It was written many years ago, and a staple among most art classes. Many of the drawing principles that are considered "old standards" in art classes were first introduced in this book.

While this book is geared towards Life Drawing (drawing the nude model) you can use it to draw most anything. It is generally revered in the artistic community. However, if you want to get this book, it's probably best to get another drawing book (like the Betty Edwards of Bert Dodson book) as a companion, since you might feel a bit overwhelmed by the Life Drawing (at first). But make no mistake—the things taught in this book are worth their weight in gold.

Drawing for Older Children and Teens; A Creative Method that works for Adult Beginners Too
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Author Mona Brookes has taught children, teens and adults to draw with her methods. Even students who were terrified and intimidated by drawing were amazed by what they could draw after taking her classes. Brookes offers such encouragement in her lessons. Her teaching method is decidedly non-critical, but still she offers tried-and-true methods and structure that will teach students how to draw in the traditional, realistic way. Another must-have book, especially if you worry that you have zero talent. (Don't worry! You will do fine!)

When you have chosen your drawing book(s), you need to get some art supplies. Don't worry, they don't have to be expensive, or elaborate. Check out the "Drawing Materials" page to learn more about what papers and pencils might be suitable for you.
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Jun 17, 2009 10:47 PM
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Here is another tip

One of the most important parts of learning to draw what you see is to break things down into Negative Space.

"Negative Space" is the area around the actual object you want to draw. When you look really hard at the thing you want to draw, you will start to see these negative shapes as abstract forms. Instead of seeing a nose, or a mouth, you'll see the abstract shapes that are around the nose and mouth. But since these abstract shapes share a border with the nose and mouth, when you draw the abstract (negative) shape, you'll be drawing the outline of the nose and mouth as well.

When you draw the negative spaces in a picture, you often end up with a more accurate drawing. Strange, but true!

The reason you draw inaccurately in the first place is because your brain "sees" the object you want to draw in symbolic terms, and it tries to override what your eyes actually see. When you draw the "negative space" (an abstract shape) your brain has nothing to hold onto—it can't tell try to fool you with its simple "symbolic" way of seeing things.

Drawing an image upside down is also an effective way to "trick" your brain into seeing things more accurately.) If you try to draw these abstract shapes, you will find that you'll end up with a more accurate drawing than if you merely try to draw the girl's profile as you see it in the black and white line drawing. Try drawing the abstract shapes of a picture! You'll be amazed at what you produce!

When you understand that you can "override" your brain and really see what you are drawing, you'll use this "negative space" method for anything you want to draw.

If you are drawing from a photograph, try turning it upside down and looking for abstract shapes and forms. This is a common method to help artists draw more accurately. I use it all the time.

Another thing to look for when you are drawing are the "angles". Look for the "angles" in any object you are drawing. Break down the shape into simpler, more angular lines. This will help you understand the true shape of the object you are drawing.

Once you see and lightly sketch in the "angles" in the object, you can then "smooth" them out and refine them.

Look for the angles in everything—they are there!
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Jun 17, 2009 10:50 PM
#3

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Dec 2008
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popular tool to help newbie artists see and draw more accurately is the Grid Method. The way this works is that you draw even squares (a grid) all over the picture you want to copy, and then put corresponding squares on your paper. If you want to "size up" the picture for your drawing, you can make larger squares on your drawing paper. All that is important is that all squares are perfectly even.

After you get the grids drawn in on both the picture and the drawing paper, you "match up" each square on the picture you want to copy, to the squares on your sketch paper. This helps you break down the picture into smaller segments. You then copy what is in each square, individually. Using this method, you are more apt to get things placed in the right spot, and in proportion. This method can be very encouraging to the newbie artist!

Also, when you copy what's in these squares individually, it will help you see the Negative Space of the portion of image that's in each square. This will help train your eye further to draw what you see!

grid drawing 2Of course, once you do a a number of drawings with the smaller proportioned squares it is probably a good idea to start using slightly larger squares, then even larger, and so on. Consider the grid method as a process to help you to lean how to draw more accurately on your own.

The larger the squares are in your grid, the more drawing and seeing you do to get the drawing right. Each square is bigger, so you have to work harder to fill up each square accurately.

If you were to stick with the smaller squares for your drawings, you'll get to a point eventually where you'll start to stagnate—not learn anything new. By gradually using bigger squares (and then eventually graduating to no squares at all) you'll be teaching yourself to draw freehand!

The grid method is a very encouraging drawing tool—but it should be used as a stepping stone to help you develop additional drawing skills.

I've noticed a trend among some newer artists—they are relying on the grid method alone, and are not able to draw anything without using it. They tell themselves that this is OK, because the "old masters" and other famous artists of yesteryear used the grid method. But this is only partly accurate.

It's true, many of the "old masters" did use the grid method in their drawing at times. Sometimes, they used it to to transfer their own smaller drawings onto a much larger (sometimes mural-sized) canvas. This was an appropriate use of the grid—murals are just SO huge, it would have taken forever to try to transfer an image on them by drawing freehand!

However, these "old masters" drew very well on their own. They didn't rely on the grid method for everything. They didn't need to. They drew very well from their imagination and from life. They painted "action" poses, fantasy figures (like dragons, etc.) and self-portraits—poses that would be impossible to capture with a grid, or any other pre-photographic optical aid or device. These artists used the grid method, but they knew the value of drawing freehand.

As nifty as the grid method can be, it should not be accepted as your "final destination". It shouldn't be the only technique you'll be using. Imagine the inconvenience of being saddled with the grid method forever. (All those squares, squares, squares!) So, if you decide to try out the grid method, consider it a "stepping stone" to freehand drawing.
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Jun 17, 2009 11:20 PM
#4

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Dec 2008
343
Bear in mind that most pictures have more than 5 shades of gray, and you'll often find yourself rendering more than 5 distinct shades of gray. But for this tutorial, it's easier to break the tones in a picture down to about 5 basic grays.

The "highlight" area is usually white, or almost-white. The "light gray" area surrounds the highlighted area, and blends the white in with the darker tones. The "middle gray" tone is the actual color of the sphere, without any highlighting or shadowing on it. The "shadows" are dark grays and blacks. The "reflected light" is usually one tone lighter than the shadows.

Especially take note of the "reflected light". This is a slightly lighter "rim" that is often seen on the darkest shadowed part of an object (in this case, the sphere). It is there because some light bounces off of the lighter background, creating this little strip of lighter tone. (Most portraits will have this "reflected light" area as well.)

Just like an artist shades a sphere like this, an artist shades a portrait. The same principle applies. Practice drawing your own spheres, and shade them, like the sphere on this tutorial is shaded. You can learn how to use shading in your drawings
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Jun 17, 2009 10:07 PM
It’s time to ditch the text file.
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