| Note: this is not intended for those on a tight budget. Though gathering the required parts is fairly simple, even the most basic prop version would set you back at least a few hundred €€€ or $$$. Now, to the point. Watching Blood-C: The Last Dark, the sword Saya picked at the wish shop, immediately caught my attention. By modern standards the blade she picked was quite a modest, humble blade, not unusual for classic antique katana, but very much so compared to what most people these days consider a 'beauty', and even more so next to the teethed abomination from the series. The only issue I had with it, is that in some shots the tsuba (or guard) appeared both too thin and too large in diameter, but that's really purely an animation issue. The director's choice to include this blade with these particular koshirae (or fittings) is symbolic and in my opinion very commendable. So, how to build it?  Pretty much the exact combination of fittings can be found on this alloy iaito (blunt training sword): Next you'd need a tsuka (handle or grip) with white same (ray skin wrapping), black cotton or silk ito (grip wrap), and overall length of approximately 8 sun (24.2 cm, I'll explain why later). The wrapping techniques, assembly and shape of the tsuka are all traditional: hyoujun (asymetric mirrored) menuki placement, hourglass tsuka shape, and standard hineri maki (full cross wrapped) ito wrapping with hishigami paper triangles. You’ll also need a habaki (brass blade socket) with traditional bottom-diagonal scratched relief. The saya (scabbard) is shuro (vermillion high-gloss) lacquered with rattan wrapping. It will either have to be specifically made separately, but I recommend you apply the rattan wrapping yourself, or have it done by someone acquainted with Japanese swords. It is fairly common as a repair or as reïnforcment, as even a skilled swordsman can/will eventually tear the top part of the saya appart with certain batto (sword drawing) techniques. The sageo (cord attached to the saya), like the ito, can be either cotton or silk, but not rayon considering the likely age of the sword. It is quite difficult to see what material it is made of in the movie, but I think it might in fact be neither cotton nor silk, but leather. Tachi (a different type of sword intended mainly for use by cavalry) sageo are often made of leather, but it is less common for katana. Finally, we’ve arrived at the actual blade. It has a basic midare hamon or temper line, and while it does have a bo hi (groove or fuller) it is again of a traditional style that does not run under the habaki (unlike e.g. a kakinagashi style hi). Kissaki (tip style), funbari (distal taper), and all other blade properties seem to be about standard, while the length of the nagasa (blade portion above the nagako or tang) should probably not exceed 2.35 shaku (2 shaku, 3 sun, and 5 bu, or 71.2 cm). Most modern blades are longer, because longer heavier blades are deemed ‘cool’, and people nowadays tend to be a bit taller. Heavier blades are also more forgiving for backyard cutting and other sword abuse. However many koryu bujutsu (old traditional non-sport Japanese martial arts) schools recommend the blade to be no longer than 2.35 shaku and no heavier than just under a kilo. Shorter blades are drawn quicker and a katan does not rely on its weight to do its job. For this same reason a relatively short tsuka is also recommended, some more agile movements can’t be made with too long a tsuka.  Now, what blade to get? You could use an alloy iaito blade or a live steel blade from a production sword, dulled or not. This is really where personal budget comes into play. A recycled steel blade from a modern production sword will most likely be your cheapest option. If you want a real hamon though, the price will go up significantly. Also, though it is not vissible on screen, being an old sword, the steel used for Saya’s blade was probably folded tamahagane (a Japanese steel produced from iron sand ore). If you want it folded and made from authentic Japanese tamahagane,.. do not expect to find anything below 5000,= €. So, if you’re going for realism, you might as well go for a genuine antique blade. It could even be cheaper than a new Japanese tamahagane blade, and it will probably be fairly easy to find one that has the right length, weight and style. Ok now, good luck! Completed following the above instruction, you will not end up with a sword based on or resembling that in the movie. You shall have built an exact copy of Saya's actual sword. If anyone has enough money to blow to do this, please reply to this post with pictures. Be carefull not to cut yourself accidentally or decapitate your hamster, and stay away from coke cans and other crap used in stupid YouTube ‘destruction tests’. |
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